FALL SKINCARE GUIDE

  • 10 Oct - 16 Oct, 2020
  • Mag The Weekly
  • Beauty

Wind, rain, darker mornings… autumn is here and it will take no prisoners – particularly when it comes to our skin. It happens every year: all of a sudden, our faces become dry, lacklustre and dehydrated – even flaky and red – and in need of a carefully considered skincare regime to remedy it. Your skin needs a change in skincare from season to season. Our skin tends to behave better in warm weather, a time when we sweat and naturally produce more oil. But as we move into autumn, colder temperatures constrict our capillaries which can make the skin look dull, while reduced oil production leads to a dryer complexion.

On top of this? Having the central heating on leads to dry air, which in turn leads to dehydration. We also have impaired skin barrier function to contend with, which can lead to rough texture and issues like acne. When you have a weakened barrier, more bacteria and irritants can reach the lower layers of the skin, causing acne. Seasonal colds and flu also take a toll on the immune system, which can affect the skin and contribute to any of the above skin issues. So, how should we change our existing skincare regime now summer is over?

Swap: Gel cleansers for cream and balm textures

We tend to prefer lighter, more refreshing formulas in summer, but they can feel aggressive in colder weather. Gravitate towards creamy balm or oil cleansers, rather than harsher gel formulas which can further strip the skin. In the evening, double cleanse with a balm cleanser followed by a cream formula, and then just use the cream once in the morning for the perfect cold weather cleansing regime. Honest Beauty’s Magic Gel to Milk Cleanser is ideal for the job – it goes on as a thick, sumptuous balm and emulsifies into a milk, taking all traces of dirt with it. Then there’s CeraVe’s Cream to Foam Cleanser which contains three types of ceramide to reinforce the skin barrier.

Keep: Toner or essence

A toner’s reason for existence is to keep the skin’s pH balanced. But note: If your toner contains any alcohol or astringents it’s best to shelve if for good, as it will only contribute to a weakened barrier function. The same can be said for an essence too. Keep them gentle and hydrating for the best results, year round.

Rethink: Serum

It’s time to delve into the wonderful world of serums. When it comes to choosing a serum, you need to take a bespoke approach based on what the skin needs, whatever season it may be. But generally for autumn, focus on repairing any damage that has occurred throughout summer. Of course, there are serums, like hyaluronic acid, that can and should be used year-round, but gauging the skin’s needs and adapting your products accordingly is key to getting luminous results.

We advise reintroducing retinol-infused serums if you took a break over summer to help reduce any pigmentation that may have accumulated, encourage cell turnover, and boost collagen and elastin for smoother skin texture. We also advocate incorporating niacinamide, to rebuild and maintain a strong barrier function, while the aforementioned hyaluronic acid is important to ensure skin is hydrated and plump. The newly launched Paula’s Choice Clinical 20% Niacinamide Treatment improves skin texture and barrier function, and boosts radiance; La Mer’s The Concentrate Serum helps calm stressed skin while stimulating its natural renewal processes; and Pfeffer Sal’s Essential Serum contains sodium DNA, to promote cell repair, regenerate damaged tissue and keep inflammation low.

Swap: Lightweight lotions for ceramide-rich moisturisers

Say goodbye to your summer-ready, gel-based moisturisers and lotions in favour of creams formulated with ingredients like squalene, niacinamide and centella asiatica (or cica), which protect the skin but also aid repair and regeneration. Contrary to what you might think though, a thicker texture isn’t always better for autumn. Thick moisturisers are great for more mature and dry skin types, but if you’re oily and acne prone, don’t feel like you need one. Instead, you can add a couple of drops of a low molecular weight oil to your cream to provide a slightly richer barrier. U Beauty’s Super Smart Hydrator is excellent for autumn and contains long-chain hyaluronic acid to intensely hydrate skin, while ingredients like shea butter and peptides help feed skin what it needs. Meanwhile, Sunday Riley’s ICE Ceramide Cream is packed full of barrier-boosting ceramides and red algae, to lock in moisture.

Introduce: Face oil

Unless skin is really dry, face oils can feel a bit heavy in summer. In autumn, on the other hand, they’re a treat for thirsty skin. High-quality face oils are rich in fatty acids, which are needed for an impaired skin barrier. Oils offer a plethora of benefits due to the various properties the botanicals are made of, so they can be real game-changers if you find the right one for your skin’s needs. Be careful, though as it’s paramount you find the right oil for your skin type – some oils, like coconut and argan, can be too heavy for acne and congestion-prone skin.

Keep: Exfoliator

Much like serums, exfoliants need to be deployed based on what your skin issue is – and that isn’t always season-dependent. If you’re looking to target sun damage, we advise using an acid like kojic or lactic, to enhance luminosity, while glycolic is great for softening fine lines and wrinkles. If you suffer from blemishes, salicylic acid is the best option and can be applied in targeted areas – particularly if you’re experiencing more congestion from wearing a mask. Skin feeling sensitive post-summer? Start gently with enzymatic exfoliators that don’t penetrate as deep. Elemis’s Pro-Collagen Tri-Acid Peel is an excellent all-rounder, with lactobionic, mandelic and asiatic acids to soothe skin while it exfoliates.

Keep: Face mask

Up the ante on your mask game by ensuring you apply one at least once a week, overnight, during the colder months: It’s a saviour for dry, irritated skin. Creamy textures are our top pick for colder weather. Try Ameliorate’s Restorative Facial Mask or Votary’s Intense Overnight Mask.

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