ASK A DERMATOLOGIST

I just turned 25. Should I be using retinol?

Whether you like to squeeze it out of a tube, scoop it out of a tub or decant it from a jar, you can rely on this elixir. It reduces the appearance of sun damage, prevents acne and fights fine lines. A vitamin-A derivative, retinol stimulates the metabolism of skin cells and encourages the production of collagen. While it used to be marketed as an anti-ageing miracle, it’s actually superstar ingredient for maintaining glowing, youthful skin at any age. Start using it in your mid-to-late 20s, as that’s when sun damage and fine lines start to appear.

Help! Is there anything that can get rid of my cystic zit overnight?

While you’re traditionally supposed to pick one spot treatment to prevent flaking, desperate times call for fast-acting measures. A dash of 2.5 per cent benzoyl peroxide, a pinch of two per cent salicylic acid and a dollop of one per cent hydrocortisone cream. This should see the redness of the offending breakout reduce, making it easier to cover with concealer.

I’ve always wondered, toner or no toner?

The CTM (cleanse-tone-moisturise) regimen is as classic as it gets: it promises acne-free skin, if you follow the process. A traditional toner leaves the skin deep-cleansed and warm, stinging slightly but leaving a wondrous this-is-really-working feeling in its wake. However, we suggest relegating it to the back of your shelf. A toner’s role in skincare remains dubious as it is usually alcohol-based, which is not great for skin. We have seen it recommended for acne-prone skin, but it can make skin more sensitive. If a toner is suggested to address open pores, a better option is to use a retinoid.

I’ve been using the same moisturiser for years. Is that bad?

If you’ve been dipping into the same jar since college, it might be time to switch it up. The medical term for the body’s diminishing response to a drug is tachyphylaxis. Any drug, if taken over a prolonged period of time, loses its efficacy as your body gets accustomed to it. As your body’s largest organ, your skin behaves in a similar manner. Since your skin’s reactivity changes with age, weather fluctuations and stress, a six-monthly or yearly check-in with your skin can help fine-tune your routine.

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