Ah, retinol. When it comes to defense against fine lines and maintaining a healthy glow, there's no ingredient in skincare more lauded. The irony? Even though the revolutionary youth-enhancing active is a mainstay of drugstores, department store counters, and dermatologist offices alike, it still manages to mystify. And thus, it’s often misused or underutilised.

What is retinol?

To bring it back to the basics, retinol – alongside other retinoids, such as retinoic acid and retinyl palmitate – is essentially a derivative of vitamin A, which is one of the body's key nutrients for boosting cell turnover. It's added to topical skincare products to promote skin renewal, brighten skin tone, reduce acne, and boost the collagen production. It also functions like an antioxidant to help address free radical damage, which leads to visible signs of aging.

Here, we break down how to carefully incorporate the powerhouse ingredient into your regimen to achieve a supernaturally fresh-faced complexion, now and for decades to come.

Begin in your mid 20s or early 30s

30 has long been the banner year for introducing retinol into one's routine, but many women are starting before then, motivated by early signs of aging, such as sun spots or crow’s feet, or simply eager to get a head start and utilize the latest technologies – under the careful watch of their dermatologist. Your mid 20s are a great time to start using retinol.

Integrate retinol slowly and gently

Balance is critical. Retinol can be very irritating if used too frequently or if the formulation is too strong for your skin. We recommend starting off with a pea-sized amount of a low percentage over-the-counter formula and using it two times per week, slowly increasing the usage to give the skin a chance to acclimate. Moreover, you should skip your retinol product on the day before you exfoliate. Exfoliating is abrasive and irritating, and you do not want to compound the skin irritation by heightening your skin’s sensitivity. In the spirit of not overdoing it, there's a spate of new time-release formulas fit for skin types prone to redness or breakouts. They release the active ingredient over time and may offer less irritation. In terms of prescription retinol versus something over the counter, the former is much more potent with a higher percentage of retinol and one may graduate to it over time.

Watch out for harsh side effects

While certain side effects, such as mild irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity are normal as your skin adjusts to the active, intense flaking, redness, and burning are not and those with especially sensitive skin, or who struggle with conditions like rosacea or eczema, should be wary of retinol or shy away from it all together. If you cannot tolerate retinol, don't worry. It's not the only anti-ager! There are plenty of amazing anti-aging ingredients that work beautifully without any irritation or sun sensitivity.

Use retinol only at night and wear SPF every day

Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to UV rays and sunlight decreases the efficacy of the product, so only use retinoids at night and be diligent about applying a daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day. Moreover, with retinol use, one should always be conscious of the weather forecast and trips to hot locales. It should not be used during seasons or vacations when individuals will be spending extended time in direct sunlight.

Don’t stop at your face

When applying a retinol-infused elixir, don't neglect your neck or décolletage, which are areas notorious for showing the signs of aging, yet often neglected. If those zones seem too sensitive for your current formula, add a squirt of ceramide-enriched moisturiser before smoothing it on, or pick up a separate retinoid made specifically for the area in question. They typically contain a lower dose of vitamin A, zero fragrance, and loads of soothers.