Keep it simple in White!
- 25 Mar - 31 Mar, 2023
We had just called it curtains for the PFDC Bridal Week ’19 roughly a month ago, and here we were again, sitting through another fashion week, and not complaining at all! Well, almost. We did wish that Karachi’s weather could have cooperated, as the fashion’s elite sat decked head-to-toe in their fineries, fanning their faces with their invites at Beach Luxury’s open-air venue. The irony of sweating through a “winter festive” fashion night wasn’t lost on me.
Al-Karam Studio kick-started the show with an abundance of frills, bows and exaggerated ruffles fashioned into ensembles, walked by models mimicking an appearance of budding flowers. From the collection aptly titled La Vie En Rose, the clichéd favourite was the blossoming gown Mushk Kaleem wore (pretty sure we have seen her in dozen such gowns, by now) with a romantic, sweeping train. Ayeza Khan – the face of recent Al-Karam campaigns was a natural on the ramp as she show-stopped for the brand.
On to Boheme – we loved the brand’s original spin on revamping all that’s classic, contemporary yet old-school whilst keeping cultural nuances alive and thriving. Their collection titled Gul-e-Anaar brought forth the timeless Sindhi style of gajj embroidery. The abundance of chata-pati, elaborate mirror-work and gota trimmings strengthened the ensembles. Albeit, vivid colour palette and impressive embroidery, we failed to find what a fashion critic’s eye seeks in a collection – innovation. Hassan Riaz’s Lost In My French Garden was more of a fashion orchestration than a collection. Impressive, sharp silhouettes, use of vibrant hues and old French embellishment techniques were packaged futuristically together. We did find the use of colours – particularly a sunny, feel-good yellow to be an odd choice for a winter collection.
Yasmin Zaman in a collection titled Tirana marked a surreal takeover by Albanian silhouettes in bold colours. The designer stayed true to her quintessential – neat, uncomplicated and refreshing ensembles with distinctive embroidery used sparingly. Kudos to Haya Luftullah’s bespoke jewellery, which further amped the looks.
Fresh off the ramp at Milan Fashion Week, Stella Jean brought Laboratory of Nations to Pakistan, where her inspiration was first born. Interweaving cultural craftsmanship with a celebration of the women of Chitral and Hunza, the line was Western inspired silhouettes featuring hand embroidery, truck art and geometrical patterns, a powerful amalgamation of cultures. Jean’s collection was more than just fashion; it was a tribute to the rich cultural heritage of the North packaged as fusion design aesthetics.
Humayun Alamgir stayed true to the quirk of the title, bringing a selection for men who let their outfit do the talking. Luxe velvet with gold embellishment on the jackets, silk inners and not afraid to experiment with colour – the statement of the bold man was best pulled off with the stars that didn’t hold back.
Zuria Dor’s collection aimed to celebrate feminine strength with edgy silhouettes, crop tops and self-printed coats were a steal-worthy element but nine white-dominated outfits looked like the designer was too cautious of adding some colour; the collection soon lost its aesthetic appeal. With that we moved on to Maheen Khan’s celebration of womanhood and timelessness in solid and silk, showcasing a collection that proved minimal and classy is the trick. Loose modern cuts and drapery in neon were carried well with Maheen’s choice of “real” women.
Zainab Chottani opened the show with Khuwaish, and all eyes (and souls) from the audience took in the feminine and vintage works which I feel no one does better in bridal than the said designer. Timeless crafts such as zardozi, tilla and mukesh works entwining a luxurious colour palatte of gold, ivory and peacock blues had us in awe. Fahad Mustafa and Mawra Hocane decked in black showstopped for the designer, driving the crowd insane with their beautiful pairing.
Huma Adnan’s Darwaish was heavily inspired by Sufiism; spiritual, serene elements peeking through in embroidered works of mystique resham, crystal aari, zardozi against a colour palette of rustic oranges, earthy browns, reds and purples. Refugee-crafted jewellery were elements that wowed the audience and further strengthened the collection.
SFK Bridal’s Adam & Eve was put together to serve inspiration to couples who wish to coordinate their looks for their big day. The red hot, intricately embellished lehenga and choli worn by Fahmeen Ansari was the ultimate traditional pick, followed by segue of couple pairings donning hues of pastel pink, emerald green and silver. Feroze Khan and Hania Amir in coordinating ivory ensembles got hoots from the crowd. Hania’s sleeveless peplum blouse with a sheer midriff paired over a cascading ghagra with silver blooms was truly a masterpiece.•